Kule mihla, awukwazi ukufikelela kwishampu ngaphandle kokubona amagama athi 'i-sulfate-free' eboniswe ngqindilili ebhotileni. Okwesibini ndenza utshintsho lwam kwiimveliso zeenwele ezigobileyo, nayiphi na intsingiselo yegama elithi 'sulfates' ilandelwa ngumsindo kwintlalo yeenwele zendalo. Kodwa ngelixa iimveliso ziqhwaba 'i-sulfate-free' kwiimveliso zazo ngeenjongo zokuthengisa, ngaba thina ngokwenene uyazi ukuba kutheni bebabi kangaka? Sacofa UGqr Eylse Uthando , i-dermatologist kwi-Glamderm kunye ne-Spring Street Dermatology, ukucacisa ukuba yintoni i-sulfates kwaye ukuba kufuneka siphephe ngokwenene isithako.
Yintoni iisulfates?
Igama elithi ‘sulfates’ lisetyenziswa xa kubhekiselwa kuhlobo lwesixhobo sokucoca—izinto ezixutywe nesulfate. I-surfactants yimichiza esusa ngokufanelekileyo ubumdaka ukusuka kumphezulu, utshilo uGqr.
Ukusuka entloko yakho ukuya kwimigangatho yakho, basebenza ukususa ubumdaka, ioyile kunye nayo nayiphi na imveliso yokwakha. (Ngokusisiseko, bagcina izinto ezincwinayo zicocekile kwaye zintsha kraca.) Isithako esingundoqo sisoloko sifunyanwa kubuhle kunye neemveliso zasekhaya ezifana neshampu, ukuhlamba umzimba, izinto zokucoca kunye nentlama yamazinyo, ukukhankanya ezimbalwa.
Kukho iintlobo ezininzi ze-sulfate, kodwa ezona zidumileyo (ezifumaneka kwiimveliso ezininzi) yi-sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) kunye ne-sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). Yintoni umahluko kodwa? Konke kuhla kumbandela wokucoca. Ngokubhekiselele kwisakhono sokucoca, i-SLS iyinkosi. Nangona kunjalo, u-SLES sisihlobo esisondeleyo, wachaza.
Kulungile, kutheni iisulfates zingalunganga kuwe?
IiSulfate zazidla ngokuba yeyona nto iphambili kwiimveliso zobuhle ezaqala ngeminyaka yoo-1930s. Kodwa iindaba zaqala ukwenza amaza ngeminyaka yee-'90s ukuba isithako sibangele umhlaza (owayenguwo kungqinwe bubuxoki ). Ukusukela ngoko, abaninzi baye babuza ukubaluleka kwesithako kwaye ukuba ngaba ngokwenene siyabadinga kwiimveliso zethu zobuhle konke konke-kwaye ngelixa zisenokungabangeli umhlaza, impendulo isenguhayi obambekayo, ayiyomfuneko. Nazi izizathu ezimbalwa zokuba kutheni ungafuna ukuphepha i-sulfates:
- Zinokubangela iziphumo ebezingalindelekanga ngokuhamba kwexesha. Amacandelo afunyenwe kwi-sulfates anokucaphukisa ulusu lwakho, amehlo kunye nempilo yonke, ngakumbi kubantu abanolusu olubuthathaka okanye olomileyo. Zinokubangela iziphumo ebezingalindelekanga ezifana nokomisa, i-acne kunye nokubomvu okusekwe kwisixa se-sulfate osisebenzisayo ngokuhamba kwexesha.
- Azinkulu ngokusingqongileyo. Ukusetyenziswa kwee-sulfates ngokwenene kuchaphazela utshintsho lwemozulu. Iigesi zekhemikhali ezikwimveliso oyihlambayo kumjelo wokuhambisa amanzi ekugqibeleni zingaya kwizidalwa zaselwandle.
Zenza ntoni ii-sulfates kwizinwele zakho?
Nantsi inxalenye ebhidayo kancinane-i-sulfates ingaba nendawo yazo. Basebenza nzima ukugcina iinwele zakho zicocekile, yiyo loo nto zihlala zibandakanyiwe kwiishampu kwasekuqaleni. I-Sulfates equkethe i-surfactants inceda ukuhlambulula iinwele ngokuzibophelela kumdaka kunye nokwakhiwa kwemveliso kunye nokuvumela ukuba ukungcola kuhlanjululwe ngamanzi, uDkt Love wachaza. Oku kubangela i-shaft yeenwele ecocekileyo enokuthi ibophe ngcono kwiimveliso, kubandakanywa i-conditioners kunye ne-styling gels.
Inyaniso kukuba, ayinguye wonke umntu ofuna oko. Kwaye bancinci ngokunjalo kakuhle ekususeni izinto-kubandakanywa neeoli zakho zendalo. Ngenxa yoko, banokushiya iinwele zikhangeleka kwaye ziziva zomile, zincinci, zihlutha kwaye zibuhlungu. Kwaye, banokucaphukisa isikhumba sakho sentloko kuba bekhupha ukufuma okuninzi. Okukhona usebenzisa iimveliso ezine-sulfates, kokukhona imisonto yakho iya kuba lula ukuphuka kunye neziphelo zokwahlula.
Abantu abatyekele ekubeni neenwele ezomileyo (abanjalo abo baneenwele ezigobileyo, ezibhijeneyo okanye ezinombala) kufuneka bazikhwebule kwiisulfates. Kodwa uhlobo olunye lweenwele, ngokukodwa, lusenokungenelwa kwisithako ngamaxesha athile: [IiSulfates] zinokuba luncedo kakhulu kwabo baneenwele ezinamafutha eziwa ziqhwalela ngenxa yokuveliswa kweoli eninzi, uchaza uGqr. Love.
Ndazi njani ukuba imveliso ine sulfates?
I-FYI, ngenxa yokuba imveliso ithi i-sulfate-free yayo ayithethi ukuba ayinamathiriyeli eyityhefu ngokupheleleyo. Into yobuhle isenokungabi nayo i-SLS okanye i-SLES, kodwa isenokuquka izithako ezifihlakeleyo ezivela kusapho olunye. Ngelixa i-SLS kunye ne-SLES zezona zixhaphakileyo, nazi ezinye ezimbalwa ekufuneka uzazi kwaye uzijonge:
- Sodium Lauroyl Isoethionate
- ISodium Lauroyl Taurate
- Isodium Cocoyl Isoethionate
- Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isoethionate
- Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
- I-Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
Ngaphandle kokujonga ileyibhile, enye indlela elula kukukhangela iimveliso eziqinileyo okanye ezisekwe kwi-oyile ukuze utshintshe izinto zakho zesulfate. Okanye, dibana nengcali yezonyango ngazo naziphi na iingcebiso ezingenasulfate.
Ndiyifumene. Ngoko ke, ngaba ndiyiphephe ngokupheleleyo?
Ewe….kwaye hayi. Ekupheleni kosuku, kuxhomekeke kwisixa osisebenzisayo kunye nohlobo lweenwele zakho. Kukho ingcamango ephosakeleyo yokuba i-sulfate equkethe i-surfactants imbi nge-100 ekhulwini. Inyaniso kukuba, ngabacoci ababalaseleyo, utshilo. Kwabo baneenwele ezintle, ezinamafutha, banokuba luncedo kwisiseko sokulawula ukwakhiwa kweoli kunye nokuvumela izitayile ukubamba ixesha elide.
Ukuba uthatha isigqibo sokufikelela kwi-sulfate cleanser okanye i-shampoo, uDkt Love uncoma i-moisturizer efanelekileyo okanye i-conditioner ukugcina iinwele zakho kunye ne-scalp i-hydrated. Njengoko uGqr. Love ekhankanyile, izixa ezincinci zesulfate zikhuselekile ngokupheleleyo (kwaye ixhaswa yi-FDA ). Kwaye kukho ii-gentur surfactants phaya (aka ammonium laureth sulfate kunye nesodium slykyl sulfate) onokuthi uzame ukuba ufuna ukucoceka okunzulu. Nangona kunjalo, ukucaphuka kunye nezinye iziphumo ezibi (i-acne e-acne kunye neepores ezivaliweyo) zisengenzeka, ngakumbi kubantu abanolusu olubuthathaka okanye olomileyo.
Eyona nto ingcono onokuyenza kukujonga kuluhlu lwezithako kwiimveliso zakho kunye nophando lwejargon yesayensi ongaqhelananga nayo. Kuya kufuneka uyazi ukuba ubeka ntoni ezinweleni zakho. Kukho ininzi yeemveliso ezinokuthi zigcine iinwele zakho zicocekile kwaye zisempilweni ngaphandle kokubangela ukucaphuka, ukulimaza iplanethi okanye ukujikela kwi-frizzy mess (kuba masijongane nayo-akukho nto ithandwayo.)
Thenga iimveliso ezingenasulfate: Iintombi zikaCarol eziMnyama zeVanila yokufuma kunye neShampoo engenaSulfate ekhanyayo ($ 11); TGIN Sulfate-Free Shampoo (iidola ezili-13); Intombazana + Iinwele UkuCoca + Amanzi-ukuya-ugwebu eFama iSulfate-Free Shampoo (iidola ezili-13); I-Matrix Biolage ye-3 ye-Butter Control System Shampoo (iidola ezingama-20); Ubungqina obuphilayo be-Shampoo yoSuku lweNwele olugqibeleleyo (iidola ezingama-28); Isicoci seNwele esitsha sokuhlambela iNwele () ; Ukufuma kwe-Oribe kunye noLawulo lweMasque yoNyango oluNzulu ()
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